also with extruder springs:
with v9 also the motor placement is important in combination with driven-holder etc.
what imean is where to screw the motor on the plate (the slide-holes).
(or check test with piece of filament and see if it goes straight (even without hotend),

ill copy/paste from the other post:
also someting else that is pretty important on v9 is alignment:
the motor must be placed correctly on motorplate (1.75mm bit right of middle, 3mm bit left of the middle, this will be in orca v0.30 manual soon too with pictures etc).
then after driven holder is tightened on motorplate, (total assy still loose in your hand)
then i align the total drivenholder+motorplate assy etc with the hotend using a 1.5mm hex key.
if necessary drill/file out the extruder-corner pieces holes (connecting to the base plate) a bit so you can move enough for right placement.
im not sure you understand what i mean, but its just important that the filament doesnt make a sharp bend (the hotend is pretty close to insert piece (v9b is bit longer distance in between).
so i mean some sort of "S" bend ... thats what you dontwant.

new added:
also the hole in alu base-plate/ orca 0.20 where hotend goes in, is a bit big (6.5mm for m6 thread, so you can move that too a bit. on Orca v0.30 that hole is smaller 6.1/6.2) so there is less chance of doing this all wrong.. also in orca 0.30 extruder base plate i made slide-holes for more/easier alignment possibilities.

I've downloaded the new update pdf for the ORCA v0.2 ! This is very clear and would've helped me a lot if I had it from the beginning on
But it clarified a few things; for the extruder, the bolts I've received were 4x60, on the drawing it is marked 4x70; this is the reason why I had problems with the springs ! It confirmed my own thoughts, last week I've finally ordered some 4x70 bolts, after testing 4 different types of springs. I consider this problem now solved.

Next problem is the correct placement & fixation-method of the opto-flags; are they mentioned in the updated v0.2 pdf ? (what page ?)
What is the best method to fix them ? Use a Tie-wrap & hot glue ?
Do I have to use the aluminium flags or can I use any (non-transparent) material ? (it's optical - not magnetic I assume).

I've built everything with the info & data I had available at the moment and looked at all pictures I found. Everything looks nice, paralell and level. But ofcourse I've put the fan & the extruder stepper with wires pointing in the wrong direction. (I will correct that)
I've noticed no major friction when I move the parts - I've tested the stepper-motors and they work fine. (except the extruder). What voltage-setting do I need to use for the steppers ? I've left them in the initial 12 o-clock setting ?
I just hope that now that I have the correct measurements from the new pdf, that this corresponds with my build ...

One last question for Camiel: are you planning a conversion-kit from v0.2 to v0.3 ? The v0.3 looks somuch more easier and stabler ?


Any tips, hints are always welcome ...

regards,

Chris

A conversion kit from Orca 0.2 to Orca 0.3 is a good idea. Of course its commercial success depends on the price. I would assume, however, that building the Orca 0.3 from scratch is not much more expensive than converting an Orca 0.2, especially taking the working hours for disassembling the Orca into account.

This is what i can see from the manual, that you need for a 0.3 if you have a 0.2:

2* 2010 Side-Plate
1* 2030 Bottom-Plate
1* 2050 Mid-Plate
1* 2070 Top-Plate
2* 2210 Y-Side Frame
1* 2250 Y-Motor-Plate (looks like there is only cut the upper part of the old one, so perhaps we don't need this)
1* 2270 Y-Frog

4* 3120 608-Bearings
8* 3590 Adjusting Ring
1* 5090 Cooling-Fan 60*60

I don't think, this would cost too much, but it is more work for Camiel. And my working hour would double the price, but it is a hobby after all

Opto's can be placed either with cable ties or with hotmelt (glue).
Any non-transparant object that goes in between will activate the opto.
Plain simple plastic foil will do.
Adjusting these flags is necessary to obtain a maximum built area.

Hugo

8* 3590 Adjusting Ring
you can do with less adjusting rings.
I use two as end/homestop on Orca v0.3,x-axis and around 4 more as just "distance-holder" so anything could work there..
but for "logistics" I rather prefer less (bit more expensive) parts then all kinds of extras we have to keep stock etc.
check edrawing (soon online) then you can count how many you really need.
But my gues (im very tired now..) is 12 you need in total.. 4 for each axis doesnt sound stupid

ps. im thinking about the upgrade kit..
if there is enough demand (and you help me finish the list ) we can probably do that..
ps2: the Y-motor bracket can probably not be reused.. or at least not without drilling, the distance between threaded rod (because belt routing is bit different) is a bit shorter then on orca v0.2

We have 11 in our 0.2 Orcas, so only one is needed then. But i will look at the weekend in the new manuals, if i have the time.

Camiel, just give us an approximate price for the conversion kit from Orca 0.2 to 0.3 (see above estimate), and wait for the answers.

yes, but well price depends on demand..
but that is only when we make special upgrade kits (some sheet material you can re-use).
I mean the lower amounts i order, the higher the price at the waterjet cutter.

Other option is to just buy whole alu thick sheet of orca 0.3 as upgrade, because making custom sets just for upgrading customers might be same cost, due to lower quantity..